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Cambodia has had a pretty bad run of luck for the last half-millennium or so. Ever since the fall of Angkor in 1431, the once mighty Khmer Empire has been plundered by all its neighbours. It was colonized by the French in the 19th century, and during the 1970s suffered heavy carpet bombing by the USA. After a false dawn of independence in 1953, Cambodia promptly plunged back into the horrors of civil war in 1970 to suffer the Khmer Rouge's incredibly brutal reign of terror, and only after UN-sponsored elections in 1993 did the country begin to totter back onto its feet.
Much of the population still subsists on less than the equivalent of US$1 a day, the provision of even basic services remains spotty, and political intrigue remains as complex and opaque as ever; but the security situation has improved immeasurably, and increasing numbers of visitors are rediscovering Cambodia's temples and beaches. Siem Reap, the gateway to Angkor, now sports luxury hotels, chic nightspots, ATMs, and an airport fielding flights from all over the region, while Sihanoukville is getting good press as an up-and-coming beach destination. However travel beyond the most popular tourist destinations is still an adventure.
Phnom Penh — the capital
Banlung — far northeastern provincial capital located near some great waterfalls and national parks
Battambang — the second biggest town of Cambodia
Kampot — town between the capital and Sihanoukville and gateway to the Bokor National Park
Koh Kong — small border crossing town near the Thai border
Kompong Thom — access to less well known (and less crowded) ancient temples and other sites
Kratie — relaxed river town in the north-east on the Mekong, and an excellent place to get a close look at endangered river dolphins
Siem Reap — the access point for Angkor Wat
Sihanoukville — seaside town in the south, also known as Kompong Som
Angkor Archaeological Park — home of the imposing ruins of ancient Khmer civilization
Bokor National Park — ghostly former French hill resort
Kampong Cham — nice countryside village on the Mekong river and good place to meet real Cambodia
Kep — a seaside area which predates Sihanoukville as the main beach resort in Cambodia; slowly being re-discovered by travellers
Krek — a small village on the backpacker trail between Kratie and Kampong Cham
Koh Ker — more ancient ruins, north of Angkor
Poipet — gritty border town that most overland visitors to Angkor pass through
Preah Vihear — cliff-top temple pre-dating Angkor
Tonle Sap Lake — huge lake with floating villages and Southeast Asia's premier bird sanctuary
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